From Start to Finish: How to Order Active Ingredients in Skincare

Retinol, salicylic acid, peptides – how to organize all of these? I really like the “levels” system. It’s built on the principle of a pyramid, where the foundation is the base, and the levels are the actives. The higher the level, the “stronger” the components.

Foundation

At the very bottom live the basic, gentle, and “non-conflicting” substances. They can still be called actives because they interact with the skin (soothing it, restoring the protective barrier, retaining moisture): ceramides, squalane, natural moisturizing factor, allantoin. They can be combined with anything and rarely cause irritation (except in cases of individual intolerance).

First Level

On the next level live more serious but still fairly friendly components. Low concentrations of vitamin C, 5% lactic acid, PHA acids, and (my favorites) niacinamide and azelaic acid – all of these are beneficial for the skin and can significantly improve its condition, but are still unlikely to cause irritation or conflict with other actives. The key point is to pay attention to the concentration of components. If 5% lactic acid and 5% vitamin C live here, then 10% lactic and 20% vitamin C are already on the next level, requiring more caution when combined with other actives.

• Azelaic acid
• Peptides
• Glukonolactone
• Tranexamic acid
• Low % vitamin C
• Niacinamide

Second Level

On the second level are the actives that can easily lead to problems if overused. High concentrations of AHAs, BHAs, and ascorbic acid are better not combined – choose one or separate them by days of the week (e.g., Tuesday for AHAs, Thursday for vitamin C). Components in this category can be combined with actives from the lower “levels.” But it’s important to monitor the skin’s reaction and, if discomfort appears, reduce the frequency of use or the number of actives in your routine.

• >10% AHA
• >15% Vitamin C
• Salicylic acid

Third Level

Here reside the heavyweights. Components from this category are best not mixed with each other. Choose one that suits your skin best. It’s possible that you don’t need such high-level actives at all. If you don’t have pronounced breakouts or deep wrinkles that bother you, you can easily get by with the lower “levels.” However, if your routine includes retinoids, high concentrations of acids, or prescription acne treatments, be cautious with other components. You can still use any substances from the “foundation” and add two to three actives from the “first level,” but additional exfoliation or 20% ascorbic acid from the “second level” can increase the chance of skin irritation.

• Retinoids
• Benzoyl Peroxide
• High percentage of glycolic acid.