Why Less Is More in Skincare

Cosmetic chemists often tout the phrase “less is more.” Instead of 20% vitamin C, use just 1% in a different form. Rather than mixing all types of acids into one jar, create a functional product with just two. The “less is more” principle is guided by two key reasons:

1. The skin doesn’t need as many actives as we try to “feed” it.
2. Someone needs to put a stop to the “label race,” where manufacturers aim to cram the highest percentage of everything into one jar to outdo competitors. This is how we end up with 18% acid peels, 11% niacinamide, and 97% hyaluronic acid.

Why did I highlight these products? Because the maximum (manufacturer-recommended and research-backed) concentration of niacinamide is 5%, and for hyaluronic acid, it’s 1%. For acids to work effectively at 18% (almost a professional peel), they need a pH below 3.

The trend for this concentration race was likely set by The Ordinary: the Canadian brand took “ordinary” ingredients, turned them into serums, and prominently displayed the concentrations on the labels. In some cases, they did this particularly boldly: a 32% peel (with FDA-approved levels at 10%) and 23% vitamin C. After this, other cosmetics seem less effective if their numbers are lower. But this is not true:

• Much depends on the form of the substance. For example, there are over 10 forms of vitamin C, and each works differently at different concentrations. Vitamin C in the form of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (known to chemists as VC-IP) is effective at concentrations from 0.05% to 3%.
• Actives in a formula work “together,” not alone. Sometimes one active does the heavy lifting while the others play a supporting role or form a complex. They don’t need high percentages to be effective.
• Delivery methods matter greatly for some actives. The percentage of the active ingredient might be low, but delivery systems (liposomes, nanoparticles, biodegradable microneedles) can transport it to deeper layers of the skin and ensure it works effectively.

Let’s consider the above points using niacinamide as an example – one of the most multifunctional skincare ingredients with various concentrations. Which one should you choose? Here’s the answer:

• If you have a damaged lipid barrier, look for products with 2% niacinamide.
• For mild acne, use 4%.
• For pigmentation, use 5%.