In the world of skincare products, there are only two clearly regulated definitions: pharmaceutical or medicinal product (which is sold in a pharmacy) and cosmetic product (everything you can find on the shelves of cosmetic stores and online). You cannot register a medicinal product as a cosmetic one and sell it in a regular store. However, how you name your jar – cream-gel, emulsion, essence, or serum – is up to you.
Of course, there are criteria that help differentiate basic types of products.
For example, if a product contains occlusives, it is most likely a cream. What we call serums are often referred to as hydrogels in scientific research – that is, a gel-based product in which active ingredients are dissolved. However, this is not a strict criterion either: a serum might not contain any water at all (serums with azelaic acid and some forms of vitamin C sometimes come in this “dry” format).
When it comes to more specific names, there are no clear criteria at all.
For instance, how do you distinguish a regular night cream from a “night mask”? One might say that a night mask should be richer and more nourishing. But in reality, you can easily find a regular cream that is much richer than any mask. The same goes for toners, essences, and ampoules. The only difference between these products might be their consistency and density. But you are likely to find a very liquid serum and a fairly thick “toner.”
The conclusion is simple: Do not pay attention to how the manufacturer named the product.
Don’t worry if your routine lacks an essence between cleansing and serum. Build your skincare routine based on your skin’s needs, and choose specific products by looking at their ingredients. For example, if you want to add hyaluronic acid, look for it in the ingredient list (preferably in several molecular sizes). Whether it’s a gel, essence, or ampoule doesn’t matter at all.
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