First and foremost, there are no clear diagnostic criteria for sensitive skin (unless we are talking about skin sensitivity in chronic skin conditions like atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, or rosacea). Both doctors and patients often rely on subjective factors (if your face turns red in the cold – it’s sensitive, if you had a reaction to a fragranced cream – it’s sensitive). Sensitivity is often classified as a skin type, though this is not entirely accurate. Skin sensitivity is a condition that can improve or worsen over time. Additionally, there are different types of sensitivity and various ways to manage it. Here are the types it can be:
Compromised Barrier Function
People with this type of sensitivity experience increased transepidermal water loss. If your skin is dry, has flaking, and shows redness or irritation even after washing with water or applying a basic moisturizer, it’s likely that your protective barrier is compromised.
What to do? Strengthen it. Focus on restorative components in your skincare routine, even if other skin concerns bother you more. The protective barrier is crucial for the overall “health” of the epidermis: for example, you might find that once you start actively hydrating, your acne situation improves. Look for humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, low concentrations of lactic acid) and emollients (cholesterol, ceramides, fatty acids) in your products. Research shows that moisturizing the skin leads to a significant reduction in itching and burning sensations.
Inflammatory Changes with Normal Barrier Function
With this type of sensitivity, the skin may look healthy most of the time – no excessive dryness or redness. But external factors (touch, pressure), applying cosmetic products, or temperature changes often cause discomfort.
What to do? Reactivity in people with this type of sensitivity can be related to the immune response of the body – and this is not something that can be fixed with cosmetics. However, certain ingredients can help reduce sensitivity manifestations. Look for soothing actives: aloe, panthenol, allantoin. Avoid experiments: for instance, do not “attack” your skin with retinoids.
“Pseudo-healthy” Type without Inflammatory Reactions or Barrier Disruptions
This type is hard to identify as there are almost no visible signs of sensitivity: no dryness, no redness, no inflammation. You might classify yourself under this type if, despite the lack of external signs, you experience discomfort – burning, pain, itching – when applying most cosmetic products or encountering external irritants (UV radiation, wind, cold, or heat).
What to do? If you experience discomfort, the main thing is to identify its triggers. And these will differ for everyone: some people’s skin reacts to cold wind, some to spicy food, and others to alcohol in cosmetics. Avoiding such triggers (where possible) is the primary recommendation.
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