If Your Dermatologist Advises Against Acids in Your Skincare Routine, Remember This Only Applies to Keratolytics

If your dermatologist, when selecting your home care routine, says you should avoid acids for now, remember – this only applies to keratolytics. These are the ones that exfoliate or have anti-inflammatory effects. This includes glycolic, mandelic, salicylic, azelaic, lactobionic acids, and gluconolactone (a full cheat sheet on acids can be found here). Everything else won’t harm you: there’s no need to throw out a product just because it contains the word acid.

Here are the different types:

• Hyaluronic acid: Hydrator;
• Alpha-Lipoic acid: Antioxidant;
• Ferulic acid: Antioxidant;
• Tranexamic acid: Brightening agent, reduces irritation;
• Lactic acid: Hydrator, serves as a keratolytic at concentrations above 10%;
• Malic, Tartaric, Citric acids: pH regulators, antioxidants;
• Phytic acid: Antioxidant;
• Kojic acid: Brightening agent, antioxidant.

And then there are fatty acids: stearic and palmitic, linolenic and linoleic. The latter two are often included in lipid-replenishing creams: they help the skin’s protective barrier and reduce moisture loss.