Navigating the world of skincare can be overwhelming, especially when it comes to choosing the right acid for your skin type and concerns. With options ranging from glycolic and salicylic to hyaluronic and lactic acid, each serves a unique purpose.
AHA Acids
- Glycolic
- Lactic
- Tartaric
- Malic
- Citric
- Mandelic
They improve skin tone and texture, help eliminate closed comedones, smooth fine lines, and achieve a “healthy glow” by accelerating skin renewal. They are water-soluble, working only on the surface and not penetrating deep into the pores.
Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule, allowing it to penetrate the skin deeper than other acids. This also makes it the most aggressive: the risk of irritation from a product with glycolic acid is higher than from other types of AHA. It is suitable for people with dense, porous, or mature skin.
Lactic acid is suitable for beginners and those with dehydrated, dry skin. The effect depends on the concentration: 5% affects the outermost layers of the skin, while a 10-12% solution penetrates slightly deeper.
Mandelic acid is useful for those with sensitive and/or relatively problem-free skin. If you need a gentle exfoliant, pay attention to this ingredient.
Tartaric, malic, and citric acids are most often used as antioxidants and pH regulators, helping other components in the formula.
BHA Acid
- Salicylic
Unlike alpha- and polyhydroxy acids, it is fat-soluble. It can penetrate pores, dissolve oil plugs, and eliminate comedones. PS. Salicylic and azelaic acids are excellent options for those with oily or inflamed skin.
PHA Acids
- Gluconolactone
- Lactobionic
These have large molecules that work on the surface. They can be used by people with skin conditions such as rosacea or atopic dermatitis. Additionally, dermatologists consider acids in this group to be a promising treatment for photoaging skin.
Important: Choose products with acid concentrations suitable for home use (no more than 10% for AHA acids, 0.5–5% for BHA, and up to 20% for PHA).
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