Q: I started using acids, Vitamin C, and retinol but don’t see any effects! When can I expect results?

Bringing home a new skincare product can be exciting, but soon you’re left wondering: when will it start working? It all depends on what’s inside the product!

AHA, BHA, and PHA Acids

Immediate Effects: If you’re new to acids, you might notice immediate improvements after the first use. Your skin tone could look more even, feel smoother, and your pores may appear smaller.

  • Lactic and Mandelic Acids, PHA Acids: These are the gentlest acids and work slowly and non-aggressively. Give them 4-5 weeks to show results.
  • Glycolic Acid: With its small molecule size, it can break bonds between dead skin cells, helping the stratum corneum to renew faster. Noticeable changes can appear within 2-3 weeks.
  • Salicylic Acid: It takes longer to show results (4 to 8 weeks), especially for dissolving blackheads.

Important Note: The strength of acids in over-the-counter products is limited to about 10%. If these aren’t effective enough, consider seeing a dermatologist for a medium peel.

Disclaimer: Some people experience an initial worsening of breakouts when starting acids, known as purging. This happens because the accelerated skin renewal process brings microcomedones (early-stage pimples) to the surface faster. This should subside within 2-3 weeks.

Retinoids

Retinoids need time. Some people may notice improvements within two weeks, but this is rare. Side effects like redness often appear first. A significant effect usually becomes apparent within a month and peaks around 12-16 weeks.

Considerations:

  1. Types of Retinoids: Stronger forms like isotretinoin will show more visible results than retinol esters.
  2. Retinol isn’t for everyone: Evaluate if it’s suitable for your skin type and concerns.

Vitamin C

Immediate Effects: Formulations with acidic Vitamin C (like L-ascorbic acid in an acidic environment) can show results within 2-3 weeks. The low pH provides a mild exfoliating effect, leading to a more even skin tone and that coveted “natural glow.”

Long-Term Effects: If your goal is to lighten dark spots, you’ll need to be patient. Noticeable effects on pigmentation will typically appear after 2-3 months of consistent use.

Conclusion

Understanding the expected timeline for results can help manage your skincare expectations. Here’s a quick summary:

  • AHA/BHA/PHA Acids: Immediate effects for beginners, significant results within 2-8 weeks.
  • Retinoids: Visible improvements usually within a month, peaking at 12-16 weeks.
  • Vitamin C: Early results in 2-3 weeks, with more substantial effects on pigmentation in 2-3 months.

Consistency and patience are key. Stick with your routine and allow the products enough time to work their magic.


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